Wool took an unexpected hit at New York Fashion Week earlier this week when PETA protesters infiltrated COS’s runway show claiming that sheep were beaten and bloodied for wool. Their message was “don’t buy it!”
The whole fiasco was a shock to me. Firstly, the way the (now former) president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America Steven Kolb wrestled protesters to the ground and then covered their mouths with his hand in a bid to muzzle them. Enough said!
Secondly, why was PETA protesting wool – a fibre that I’m a staunch advocate for and proud wearer of because not only is it warm and breathable but it’s sustainable and biodegrades into the earth at the end of its life? Unlike polyester!
Watching these protesters scream don’t wear wool, when polyester is choking our planet filled me with angst. What if people bought into this PETA mania and began justifying the use of petrochemical produced polyester which is clogging up our landfills and oceans, and shedding microplastics everywhere. Microplastics are now in our water, food, the air, and have been found in snow samples in the Southern Alps of New Zealand.
And I’m right. PETA wants to ban wool! They have written this plainly on their official Instagram account. Their placards say, “Ditch wool” and “Don’t Buy It’.
I’m not an advocate animal cruelty. Far from it. And in the country where I come from, New Zealand, we don’t beat up our sheep though shearing is a little more intense than what we experience when we get a haircut.
Lake Hāwea Station are leading the way in this regard. They place mattresses at the bottom of shearing chutes so that shorn sheep land softly instead of hitting a hard floor. The Station also paints floors white to spot any nicks instantly, plays classical music, and manages flocks to keep friend groups together. This is better for the wellbeing of the sheep, and the fibre they produce. Lake Hāwea also pay on time not volume, which means their shearers don’t rush. It’s better for everyone.
In New Zealand and many other countries sheep are shorn for their health and hygiene. And they gift us this extraordinary renewable natural fibre.
Animal lover, the late Sir Sam Neill was a Campaign for Wool ambassador. Campaign for Wool is a global initiative launched in 2010 by His Majesty King Charles III (then the Prince of Wales) to promote wool as a natural, renewable, and biodegradable alternative to synthetic fibres.
I was recently in Sir Sam’s beloved Central Otago to attend WoolOn, an incredible competition that celebrates wool and craft. All garments entered must consist at least 75% wool. As a celebration of the incredible resource that is wool, WoolOn recognises traditional creative arts such as knitting, crochet and felting, as well showcasing future focussed design techniques.
Stella McCartney, who is serious about animal rights, uses wool for her luxury label. Her recent collaboration with H&M included a wool blazer and trouser suit. I admit I hightailed it to Commercial Bay, Auckland to take a look but they were sold out in under 30 minutes.
I was buoyed that H&M was even selling wool. It was a step in the right direction as far as I was concerned. Though her small limited-edition capsule collection – which was only released in one store in Auckland – was akin to a grain of sand on a beach when you compared the wool garments to the polyester hanging on the racks.
I’ve been following PETA versus COS on social media where one person commented; “let’s all wear plastic. Or are we aiming for no clothes at all?”
Maybe! When animal activist and actress Pamela Anderson was a guest of New Zealand Fashion Week in 2009 she barely wore clothes (though to be fair she does today and I love the style she has developed). Back then she wore a G-string, high heels and a sarong which she held to her breasts at the press conference. On the runway, when she walked for her friend Richie Rich’s ‘animal-friendly’ swimwear and clothing label A*Muse she wore a similar combo.
PETA entities have released 17 exposés covering more than 150 wool-industry operations in seven countries on four continents. Where investigators have documented workers punching, kicking, beating and stomping on sheep, dragging them by their limbs and leaving them with bloody shearing wounds.
I have watched the PETA videos of their exposés and was shocked. The videos released are confronting and the treatment of animals in these videos is not okay.
I’ve asked them to please release the names of these seven countries and am still waiting for an answer, but I imagine they’re busy having just stormed the H&M runway at London Fashion Week. Which is rather incredible in itself. It’s not easy to break into an invite-only show. And especially after pulling the NYFW stunt. You’d think H&M would have ramped up security. The protesters, however, were smart and dressed for the part.
COS and H&M use Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) certified wool, which ensures that sheep are treated humanely and that land management protects soil health and biodiversity.
I can understand activists targeting them for their use of polyester (even if it is recycled) but why wool?
Well it has come out that PETA has filmed a wool supplier for H&M that it alleged was abusing sheep. And after looking into PETA’s allegations H&M suspended the licenses of one wool farm and one mohair farm.
This puts the spotlight on wool farming practices globally and the responsibility and importance of fashion brands to regularly audit their suppliers.
In New Zealand sheep are well treated and this shows up in the quality of the fibre.
Under the Zentera ZQ Grower Standard Manual (3.4.10) Sheep must not be mistreated or abused; (3.9.1) Mulesing is prohibited in the ZQ programme from the point of the grower joining the ZQ programme or previous if in line with legislative requirements; (3.12.2.9) Shearers and shearing staff must indicate appropriate handling, skill and training throughout the wool harvesting process. Specifically, sheep handling must minimise the risk of stock pain, injury and distress; and (3.12.2.14) Sheep must have sufficient wool cover upon release to the external environment.
Sadly accidents do happen: (3.12.2.5) Cuts and wounds incurred at shearing must be treated immediately. (3.12.2.6) Severe shearing injuries must be recorded daily and when appropriate treated with pain relief. Zentera is working with growers to establish a pathway for the application of pain relief over a period of time. Growers will be expected to engage in this process as part of the ZQ programme. (3.12.2.7) Topical antiseptic must be available for use during shearing.
There is room for improvement and I think there should be a global sheep standard that follows Lake Hāwea Station’s practices.
This debate should be about the sourcing of wool and standards, not to stop wearing wool.
And animals should not be harmed in the process.
Will I continue to wear responsibly sourced wool? Yes.
Main image photography: Oksana Maselko, Unsplash
