With more than 300 temples and a city full of culinary delights, Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand is a place Word on founder Carolyn Enting keeps returning to. Here are her top tips for where to stay, eat and explore.
People often ask me why I visit Chiang Mai so often. It’s the people, food, history and colour!
Chiang Mai is a great all year round destination though December is my favourite time to visit when the days are still warm and evenings cooler, and many clear blue sky days which ups your chances of seeing the view of the city from mountain top temple Doi Suthep.
One of the many incredible buildings to be found at the Doi Suthep complex.
Our favourite place to base ourselves is Chiang Mai Old Town, an historic 1.5 km square area surrounded by a moat and ancient walls. From here you can easily walk to the Sunday Night Market, many temples and countless authentic eateries and also sample street food.
I always have a massage at Supattra Blind Massage where skilled partially sighted / blind therapists find all your pressure points! You keep your clothes on for this traditional Thai massage and beds are side-by-side, separated by curtains.
Where to stay
We always stay in the old town at 2-star guest house Yi’s Garden Villa on Moon Muang Rd Soi 9, which has soft comfortable beds (many guest house beds in Thailand have super hard mattresses), clean rooms, free wi fi, friendly service and a swimming pool. The ground floor bedrooms are the best and the most spacious.
Ground floor room at Yi’s Garden Villa.
Eating out in Chiang Mai
Yi’s Garden Villa is close to tons of amazing eateries. Directly across the road is J Waew Soi 9 which at first glance you probably wouldn’t think to enter. But do! It’s where the locals eat, the food is authentic, reasonably priced and utterly delicious. Our favourite dish to order for breakfast or lunch is fried holy basil) with a choice of chicken, pork or tofu on rice with a fried egg.
You must try the the khao suay gai at Isaan Ros Sab, an authentic Thai restaurant.
At the end of the same street is one of our favourite restaurants for outstanding authentic food is Isaan Ros Sab on the corner of Moon Muang Rd Soi 9 and Ratchapakhinai Rd. We have been coming here for years – for breakfast and dinner – and it’s always humming.
It’s a family run restaurant with a small kitchen so when it’s packed you might have to wait a while for your food but it is totally worth being patient. Isaan Ros Sab serves possibly the best khao suay gai (chicken and crispy noodle red curry coconut soup). The service is friendly and prices reasonable.
For those seeking vegan food, fresh fruit smoothies and healthy food options, Blue Diamond (which is also in Chiang Mai’s old town) is a brilliant breakfast spot. It also offers a full Thai menu as well as Western options like bacon and eggs. I tried the banana pancakes at Blue Diamond and they were amazing. Blue Diamond also has a store selling fresh, organic produce and wellbeing brands.
Banana pancake at Blue Diamond Restaurant.
Another dish you must try in Chiang Mai is kaho mon gai (chicken and rice) that comes with sliced cucumber and dipping sauces. The chicken is broiled but tender and paired with the sauces, sublime. Entire restaurants specialise in this one dish.
Kaho mon gai (chicken and rice) is a surprisingly delicious dish and a must try.
Temples
There are over 300 temples in Chiang Mai – almost as many as Bangkok. The most famous is Doi Suthep which rises 1676km above and behind the city. It’s worth a day trip here as it is also close to my favourite temple What Pha Let which ancient, moss covered and picturesque.
If you are not a confident scooter rider – the road up to Doi Suthep is steep and winding – I’d hire a local guide so that you can easily visit all these three places at your own pace and leisure.
Doi Suthep is worth the prilgrimidge and has views out over the city on a clear day.
Most climb the naga staircase of 300 steps to Doi Suthep which is famous for its golden umbrella, views over Chiang Mai, golden buddhas and colourful bunting.
On the road back down, stop in at What Pha Let that will satisfy intrepid explorer souls. Its jungle setting, unusual carvings, stone peacocks and beautiful temple buildings is like stepping into the pages of National Geographic.
Stone peacocks at What Pha Let near Doi Suthep.
About 2.5km down the road from Doi Suthep you’ll find a waterfall. The pools beneath the falls are a nice place to swim in the rainy season. You can also walk a well marked trail through the jungle to another waterfall. There are many waterfalls in this area.
Back in the city Wat Chiang Man in the Old Town is the oldest wat built in 1296. I particularly love this temple because of the elephant statues.
Wat Chiang Man, Chiang Mai Old Town.
Thai silks and umbrella making
If you’re feeling creative or want to give a pretty umbrella a twirl, head to Saa Paper and Umbrella Handicraft Center on Chiang Mai-San Kamphaeng Rd.
Here you can watch artisans make the bamboo frames and saa (rice) paper actually made from the bark of mulberry trees, construct and decorate them. And you can paint your own too.
Another popular place to visit and see umbrellas being made is Bo Sang Umbrella Village.
Decorate an umbrella at the Saa Paper and Umbrella Handicraft Center.
Thai Silk Village nearby is also worth a visit for anyone who loves textiles. Here you can see silk being made by silk worms, silk spun and woven into fabric on looms as well as meet the artisans and then shop the product.
Watch fabric being woven on looms at Thai Silk Village.
The standard of workmanship here is high and you’ll be surprised by many of the fashion forward styles and silhouettes. They have nice toilets here too!
Examples of woven and dyed silk at Thai Silk Village, Chiang Mai.
Cooking school
Cooking schools are also popular in Chiang Mai and super fun to do. Options include Thai Farm Cooking School and Siam Garden Cooking School. They start with a visit to a local fresh market to learn about the different Thai herbs and to shop fresh produce. Then it’s time to don an apron and learn how to make classic dishes such as khao suay, pad thai or mango sticky rice.
At Siam Garden Cooking School I had fun by dyeing my sweet sticky rice blue with fresh butterfly pea flowers grown in the Siam garden. No artificial food colouring to see here despite appearances!
Dishes I learned to make at Siam Garden Cooking School from top: Khao suay, mango sticky rice, pad Thai and banana spring roll.
Another fun foodie thing to do is to boil your own eggs at the San Kamphaeng Hot Springs, a 36km drive from the city. Eggs in woven baskets can be purchased which you then lower, balanced on a stick, into a hot pool.
The gardens are here nice to walk around too and there’s a hot water fountain with a warning not to get too close because the water is 100 degrees Celsius.
Boiling eggs at San Kamphaeng Hot Springs.
You can also soak in some of the hot springs and there are private mineral baths and a swimming pool so bring your bathing costume and a sarong. Sarongs are a must-have when travelling in Thailand as they can be used for so many things including as a top, shawl, makeshift maxi skirt when visiting temples and as a towel.
Elephants
Cháang means elephant and elephants have a big presence in Chiang Mai. Maerim Elephant Sanctuary is an ethical operator. It was founded by Busabong “Pui” Kuetkong after witnessing the suffering of elephants used for logging and tourism in Chiang Mai. It began as a small rescue effort and has grown into a true refuge. Here the elephants are cared for, not ridden or chained up. Visiting these gentle giants is a wonderful experience as you get to walk alongside them to the watering hole.
They also get you to dress up in traditional Thai costume.
Maerim Elephant Sanctuary.
Chiang Mai markets
There are lots of markets in Chiang Mai. The fresh market, night bazaar and Sunday Night Market are three of the main ones. For local arts, crafts and clothing the Sunday Night Market on Ratchadamnoen Road has a lot of choice as well as a dedicated eating area for foodies as well as an abundance of street food vendors.
The length of Ratchadamnoen Road becomes a walking street. To find the area area, look for the golden temple (see below) where you are also likely to see monks in prayer. The Sunday Night Market is open from 4pm to 11pm.
Monks making an offering at the temple at the centre of Chiang Mai’s The Sunday Night Market.
The fresh market is an eye opening experience and essentially Chiang Mai’s supermarket and where the locals buy their fresh herbs, vegetables, meat, fish and poultry as well as dried insects and hot chilli and spices.
Visiting the food market is an eye opening experience and where the locals buy their food.
River Cruises
Taking a relaxing river cruise is another popular pastime. We chose Mae Ping River Cruise which visits a herb farm and includes lunch. We chose khao suay because you can never get enough of this delicious Northern Thai noodle soup!
Many restaurants also line the river and offer live musical entertainment in the evening.
